China Birds Australia specialising in women's tours of China

I travelled for 5 days last September on a trip to Northern Xinjiang Province. It's an area almost unknown to Western tourists. A new frontier. What an adventure I had there!

We saw snow-capped peaks, amazing geological formations, Kazakh and Tuwa people, small towns and out of the way places- and I didn't see another Westerner the entire time.

With Driver Wang and Jack my guide and interpreter, I travelled to Buerjin, then on to the remarkable Kanas Lake area of hills, mountains and lakes- which I decided to call Golden Wonderland as the grassland was gold -coloured and the trees were yellow ( just for the record the water is blue).

We explored three different bays along the lake shore, and I learnt of the legend of the monster who is supposed to live " just around the bend". Some say it is just a very large red fish.

Who knows- but it's a good yarn.

A highlight was an encounter with a Kazakh family on their way from their summer upland home to a winter camp on the warmer plains. Their yurt was packed on the backs of their camels and the woman held her child in front of her as she rode her horse.The little child- a daughter ?- was dressed in a knitted pink beanie and poncho. What a magic moment.We saw other travellers from time to time- Kazakhs with camels or cattle. Sometimes we would overtake a ute, one with a front and back seat cabin- and it would be packed with men- maybe six of them. The back of the ute would contain animals of some kind, usually cattle. When we stayed at Kanas Lake, the weather was a little cold at night- it was in the mountains after all. When I opened the wardrobe, I noticed 2 beautiful long padded khaki army coats (brand new). My protector and guide Jack said, by the way, if you go out to look at the stars tonight, make sure you wear your coat. The room was snug, and very comfortable, being new, but it was a two doona night. I stayed inside and admired the stars through the window.

We ate at small restaurants with the locals. The food was great- and the restaurants were very clean. One of my favourite meals was a big bowl of beef and noodles. It was piping hot and a little bit spicy, and full to the brim with noodles, pieces of beef and vegetables. I could "feel it doing me good".At another small restaurant on our way to Karamay - a Uighur restaurant- we had soup with glassy noodles made of potatoes,plus tofu, and vegetables- and shishkabobs straight from the grill outside the door.

I stayed at the Mysterious Lake Hotel in Buerjin twice when I was away- once on the way up to Kanas Lake, once on the way back.

It was a very well-appointed and the staff were very friendly towards me- though a bit shy. I got the feeling they were not so used to Westerners, but wanted to do the right thing. When I went down to breakfast I was surprised by a glass of milk from the very pleasant waitress.I didn't ask- she just took the initiative and it came in a tall glass. I had a hard-boiled egg and some rice and vegetables. A Thai lady gave me some coffee sachets- coffee and milk combined. Such a sweetie. She recognised Jack from a previous trip- he'd been her guide then- and we kept running in to her. I said- "Jack, there's your auntie again". Anyway- I took coffee sachets to breakfast after that and one morning I had sponge cake dipped in coffee for part of my breakfast- very European !

I walked around Buerjin before dinner. It's a small city, (around 50,000 people live there) with wide streets, lined with trees and flowers. There are many different faces to greet you- Han, Kazazh, Uighur and Mongol.

We also visited a Kazakh encampment where a "handsome boy" to use Jack's words, danced for me. He was brilliant, the dance was the Eagle Dance, quite a famous one. He invited me to dance with him. There are different dancers on the youtube clip below, but the music is the same. Have a look and listen!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMA8krrAUkU

We visited some very interesting places. The Five Coloured Bay was one. It is a photographer's paradise, as every picture is a masterpiece. It is virtually in the middle of nowhere. Bare hills and cliffs line a river, but these hills have been stained by minerals leaching into the rock and soil. So there is deep pink, brown, grey, red, dappled and pitted areas all magnificent. And when the shadows kick in it creates some wonderful effects.

I could have stayed all day, but other treats were in store, but I can't resist showing some more of the photos I took that day. So here they are.

Karamay is an amazing city in the desert. As you drive into Karamay from the North, there are oil wells on either side of the highway-as it is flat, all you can see are the arms of the wells working away. The sun glinting on all that metal. Quite a sight. Karamay is a modern city ( from around 1950). Some compare it to Las Vegas, but, sorry- no gambling in China. From my hotel window, I could see the desert surrounding the city.

On the way to Karamay we stopped at another natural wonder- the Ghost City. It's in the middle of "nowhere", an area of rocks, ridges and plateaux sculptured by the wind. The colours of the landscape are golden, deep red and grey. But when the sun disappears behind a cloud, the rocks turn black. Jack and I walked across the terrain- we noticed scatterings of pebbles, all beautifully coloured, smooth as stones from a river bed. These apparently are blow there by the wind. We also saw two figures trudging towards us with picks over their shoulders. Dressed in overalls with pants tucked into boots, these were engineers or geologists working for one of the many mineral exploration companies searching for oil or ore.

The Ghost City is quite eerie, and I imagine it would be very unpleasant in a wild wind storm. But if I went there again, it would be fun to go through the ridges and canyons on the back of a camel. Or you could pretend that you were in the Wild West of America- without the cacti.

The trip finished in Urumqi - where it had begun 5 days before. Jack had suggested that we visit the Bazaar so I took up his suggestion. He was very helpful, chatting with the stall-holders and looking after my bags of goodies like a dutiful son. Some quick bargain, bargain and we were out of there. It didn't take long, but I bought some lovely things. The pashminas are waiting for my daughter to check out - she has first pick. They really are gorgeous, paisley patterns, reversible, some with almond blossom or lotus designs -the Uighur ladies at one stall told me a lot about them.

I'll be adding to the story of this trip. It has lingered with me. So please look through it some time - there will be more amongst the text above.

Northern Xinjiang is a beguiling place, so I am adding it to the Inner Mongolia, and Wild China tours in 2010.

Go to the photo gallery of more of the amazing highlights from my trip.

Di Clanchy travelled courtesy of CYTS Xinjiang Co. Ltd.

Autumn leaves at Kanas Lake